Profiter lecture les postes plus visites sur ce blog

Online Car Auctions – 8 Great Reasons To Buy Online




Are you tired of the hassle of trying to buy a car through a dealer? Haggling with the salesman to get what you think is a great price only to find out from your buddy the great price he paid for his car. Or worse yet seeing the same car advertised at a lower price a day later. Have you ever heard of someone getting a car at an incredible price, or wondered what happens to cars seized by the banks, police agencies or government. Are you curious about what happens to t pre-owned government vehicles?



These cars are sold at auction; some at onsite auctions and some at online car auctions. Buyers can get these cars for thousands less then retail and some starting at bids of $100.00. If saving that kind of money isn’t a good enough reason to visit an online car auction then here are six more.





1. Online Car Auctions are Fun





Online car auction can be a lot of fun. First there is the excitement of bidding for that car you’ve always wanted. Then there is the thrill of getting your dream car at a dream price. You could even practice by guessing what the top bid will be and see how close you come. How much would you have saved?





2. Online Car Auctions Are Convenient





What a better place to shop for a car then in the comfort of your own home. Or if you have a laptop then you could bid anywhere. You could bid at your favorite coffee shop, or at the office (during lunch of course). In addition you can be researching your car, the seller, loans, insurance, or surfing your favorite sites while waiting for your winning bid to come through.





3. Online Car Auctions Save Time and Effort





Driving from dealership to dealership, or from private owner to private owner can waste a lot of your precious time and play havoc with your nerves. What if your schedule just doesn’t give you the time to run around? At today’s gas prices who wants to do all that driving. With online car auctions you set your own schedule for research and can bid at home or during coffee break or lunch.





4. Online Car Auctions Make Paperwork Easy





Many online car auction sites provide services to make your buying experience as simple as possible. They have automated forms to allow the processing of your sale to happen as quickly and easily as possible. They provide courses on proper bidding procedures. Online car auction sites provide access to companies that help you with finances and insurance. For your sense of peace many sites offer the ability to check the V.I.N number of the car you wish to purchase. There is a lot of competition out there so they do what they can to provide that great customer service experience.





5. Online Car Auctions Are Where You Get Your Car At A Bargain Price





Online car auctions are one of the best places to get a great car at a bargain price. Thousands of cars, trucks, motorcycles and SUV’s end up in auctions. Many of these vehicles are in prime condition; being either repossessed by banks or law enforcement agencies, or pre-owned government vehicles. Many sites boast cars sold for savings as high as 90% of retail. While this is possible most vehicles go for around wholesale or blue book value. Still a sizeable savings over anything you can get from a dealership.





6. Online Car Auctions Help You Stay On Budget





A major problem faced buy most buyers is letting your emotions influence your buying decision. Something the average car dealer knows how to exploit. Online car auction sites protect you from the heat of bidding by allowing you to place a maximum bid level before starting the auction. This way you can only bid as much as you common sense will allow. That is as long as you don’t let your emotion decide the maximum bid to begin with.





7. Online Car Auctions Offer Great Choice





There is thousands of seized and pre-owned cars at auction. You can find almost any make or model of vehicle at online car auctions. Even if the car is unavailable in your area it may be available in the near future or in a city close to you. Depending on the site they may offer access to vehicles in your immediate area or across the country. There are free online auction sites and sites where you purchase a membership for a small one-time fee. These sites offer instant access to large databases of online and conventional auctions across the United States.





8. Online Car Auction Sites Provide Peace of Mind





It’s very important to online car auction sites to maintain a good reputation. To this end many sites provide services such as vehicle history reports for a small fee, or programs to protect buyers from fraud or misrepresentation. You may even be able to check out the sellers rating if they have sold on that site before. There are also resources on how to purchase a car online and how to bid to your advantage.





Give Online Car Auctions a Try... Kust Remember





Information is your friend. Like any major purchase you should do your homework on the vehicle you plan to purchase. Once that homework is done familiarize yourself with the policies and guarantees offered by the online car auction site. Find out what you can about the vehicle and the seller. Look into insurance and financing options. Prepare well and you should have a very enjoyable experience and own the car of your dreams for thousands less than the guy next door.


Car Insurance. It's Getting Increasingly Expensive When You're Elderly.




There were 550 serious accidents last year where the driver was over aged 70 and where driver was either killed or badly hurt, reports the Institute of Advanced Motoring . That statistic represents 8% of the national total of 7,035 similar accidents. That means that the over 70's's have more, very serious accidents per mile than any other sector of the population. This view is supported by the Association of British Insurers whose research shows that drivers aged over 70 are 13% more likely claim on their insurance than the drivers aged between 40 and 50.

As the number of elderly drivers will double during the next ten years, this represents a problem for elderly drivers and their families - not to mention the insurance industry, police and indeed all of the emergency services!

You can probably predict the response from the insurance industry. Many insurance companies already reckon that drivers over 80 are as high a risk as the under 25's - and charge premiums to match! Some are even progressively loading premiums once the driver reaches 60. Then at 70, you'll find that many insurance simply refuse to offer cover. Norwich Union and Esure won't quote after 70 and by the time the driver reaches 80, the field narrows to specialised insurers who insure elderly drivers. Help the Aged and Age Concern both market policies that have no upper maximum age. Cornhill only accepts new policyholders up to 84 but if you've been insured by them for a few years, there's no upper age limit. RIAS and Saga are also pleased to consider older drivers.

As the price of car insurance is based on historical claims experience, a 75 year old male driver can expect to pay at least 33% more than if he were aged 50. By the time the driver reaches 80 the premiums hit boy racer levels! So if you're in your early 50's keep smiling at the lowest premiums you'll ever experience – they won't last forever!

And the fairer sex fare even worse. Whilst younger women are renowned for their safe driving, they become more accident-prone as they get older. Whereas male drivers improve with age. (Where have we heard that before!) As a result, elderly women drivers pay the highest rates for car insurance.

It's a biological fact that eyesight and reaction times worsen as age creeps on. And with traffic becoming heavier and road networks ever more complex, elderly drivers can more easily become disorientated and confused. Even a fraction of a second's delay can make the difference between an accident and a near miss. Insurers are reacting by insisting that more elderly drivers take a medical before agreeing to provide insurance. The best advice is to build up a no claims record and as soon as possible and buy No Claims Protection. This protection cost a bit more but it's well worth the money. Then make sure you pay for any small bumps yourself.

But there are some simple steps that older drivers, and indeed all drivers, can take to reduce the likelihood of them having an accident and thereby making themselves more insurable. It's often more about those little things and being alert to likely problems. For example, car parks are a breeding ground for small accidents. Knowing that take more care. Before you get back into your car, walk round it to see how much room you've got. Then edge out carefully making sure that other drivers in the car park aren't driving into the area you're moving into. Then, if advancing years has stiffened you neck and all-round visibility is a bit more difficult, take special care at junctions and when reversing. Remember to move you head and swivel your shoulders - that way you'll increase your sweep of vision.

Many of the policies for older motorists contain special provisions designed to assist them. On Saga's policy for example, ex company car drivers can use any no claims record they'd built up and if a couple are insured and the main driver decides to quit driving, then the spouse can take over the no claims record. Other policies also provide full insurance cover for anyone who takes over driving in an emergency. Cornhill will even payout £250 if the DVLA stops you from driving for health isues associated with age.

In moves to diminish the numbers of accidents involving the elderly, the UK Government is investigating the issue of deteriorating health amongst elderly drivers. It seems to be considering the idea of obligatory health checks for elderly motorists. At the same time some local councils are introducing initiatives of their own. Torbay council has launched a scheme to encourage families and GP's to take more responsibility for encouraging elderly drivers who are not really fit drive, to give up. A road safety spokesperson for Torbay council said, ”The problem is that the elderly can't always see themselves when it's really time to give up driving so those closest to them must take responsibility for that.”

In the meantime, a survey carried out by the Institute of Advanced Motorists confirms that older motorists are aware that they represent an increased accident risk. Seven out of ten older drivers surveyed said they would like to take a refresher course for motorway driving skills and six out of ten wanted to improve their performance at junctions and on unlit roads. In response to these issues, the Institute has extended its advanced tests to older non-members to encourage them to improve and build up confidence. The tests also help spot any serious problems that should encourage the driver pack up driving.


How Chris Bangle Saved The World: The 2006 BMW 5 Series




He’s mad, they all said. Then they all started copying the BMW design chief’s ideas. Whether you like his work or loathe it, Chris Bangle is the most influential car designer of the 21st century. His ‘visual energy’ was a hallmark of many of the new cars at the recent Frankfurt and Tokyo motor shows. Before Bangle, premium cars followed the lead of Mercedes and more recently Audi – were organic, clean, simple designs. Modern cars are fussier, busier, multi-angled, sharper edged. That’s the Bangle influence.

Bangle himself won’t comment on his favorite BMW, but claims the new 5-Series “is the most avant-garde product we have ever done.” The previous BMW 5 Series was an elegant car, surmising the evolution of the classic BMW look. However, it was not penetrating the luxury car market. With the changing demographic of China and Asia emerging as major car buyers, BMW needed to do something new, something big. Under Bangle’s tutelage, BMW’s design philosophy has encompassed the modernistic approach: form should always follow function. Such philosophy is not something new to BMW – it has been the brand hallmark since the beginning 90 years ago when the infamous “kidney” grille was introduced at the 1933 Geneva Auto Show.

The essential shape of the 2006 BMW 5 Series, with its long snout and short overhang, is the result of the quest for perfect harmony in design, to achieve an ideal 50:50 weight distribution for better road performance. Even the battery is placed towards the rear to distribute the weight more evenly. Look beneath the surface and you won’t be disappointed. The 2006 BMW 5 Series has an all aluminum front end and suspension, rather than steel. As a result, this spacious 4-door, 5-passenger sedan with an assortment of comfort features weighs just 3428 lbs. (165 lbs. lighter than the previous model). The resulting performance gives better fuel efficiency: 20 mpg city and 30 mpg highway, while offering a degree of athletic agility not usually associated with larger luxury cars.

The unsullied splendor of the 2006 BMW 5 Series is found inside the car. The easily visible dials and the uncluttered cabin enhance the art of driving. The car also features an improved iDrive control panel which has been upgraded for easier personalization of comfort and convenience features. The wheelbase is longer at 113.7 inches (2.3” increase) and length is up by 2.6 inches. This translates into a larger trunk, and a roomier cabin, especially in the rear where two adults can peacefully sit. The two front seats are equally supportive and can be adjusted in 20 directions. The lumbar enhancement and thigh support on both the front passenger and driver seats will keep you comfortably focused as you enjoy the joy of driving.

Passion fuels success in the 2006 BMW 5 Series. The all-new engine is 40% lighter than last year’s model. Made from a magnesium block with hydro-foamed camshaft, it’s equipped with 215 horsepower in 525i and 255 horsepower in the 530i. The resulting 0-60 times are 7.3 seconds and 6.4 seconds for 525i and 530i, respectively. Additionally, the 550i features a 4.8-liter V8 power plant with 360 horsepower. The 550i can cover 0-60 mph in a scant 5.4 seconds. At the top of the BMW 5 Series lineup is the sensational M5, featuring the refined Formula 1, V10 engine with 500 horsepower. The engine is mated to a 7 speed sequential manual transmission producing a gargantuan 409 pound-feet of torque at 6100 rpm, redlining at 8250 rpm.

Going fast is only half the battle; the car must also protect the inhabitants in case of an accident, and maintain its composure in all sorts of road conditions. As such, there are numerous safety innovations integral to the 2006 BMW 5 Series. For example, the Xenon Adaptive headlights automatically swivel to follow the curves of the road. Data from light sensors determine the car’s direction and projects the light so the driver can see the road ahead with less strain. For enhanced handling, BMW’s xDrive™ distributes varying power between the front and rear axles, ensuring agile, neutral and forgiving handling during spirited driving. Additionally, the Dynamic Stability Control™ provides further tenacity on slippery road surfaces.

Sales and profits at Bayerische Motoren Werke AG have grown as the Bangle cars, including the 3 Series, Z4 and the 7 Series, have come on stream. Rival design chiefs, who were once Chris Bangle’s most vociferous critics, have tempered their language. Renault’s Partick Le Quement, possibly the world’s most respected car designer, says: “There are some really strong designs;” Nissan’s Shiro Nakamura prefers BMW 5 Series clear design language: “It’s challenging and unconventional.” The combination of strong visual sensibility, sublime engine technology, a luxurious cabin, and advanced safety features have contributed to making the 2006 BMW 5 Series the benchmark in the mid-luxury market. Of the six iterations of the new 5 Series, the MSRP ranges from $41,800 for the 525i sedan; $51,100 for the 530xi wagon; and $81,200 for M5. Like the madness of a misunderstood artist, Christopher Bangle has indeed improved on BMW’s bottom line.


Tips To Avoid Car Insurance Premium Increases & Becoming Assigned Risk




Below are some tips to reduce your auto insurance bill, prevent substantial premium increases and avoid becoming assigned risk.

Claim Reports: You know about credit reports, you should also know about claim reports. C.L.U.E.® (Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange), is a claim report service provided by ChoicePoint, Inc. ChoicePoint, Inc. states on their web site "C.L.U.E. is a claim history information exchange that enables insurance companies to access prior claim information in the underwriting and rating process. C.L.U.E. Personal Property reports contain up to five years of personal property claims matching the search criteria submitted by the inquiring insurance company. Data provided in C.L.U.E. reports includes policy information such as name, date of birth and policy number, and claim information such as date of loss, type of loss and amounts paid."

Tip: C.L.U.E. reports contain information on claims history by a residence address. Just like credit reports, a C.L.U.E. report may have errors. It is advisable to obtain a copy of your C.L.U.E. report at ChoiceTrust.com to check your report for errors.

Credit reports: Insurance companies are now looking at credit reports to determine future premiums. They have determined that people with better credit scores have fewer claims. Consequently, if you have a poor credit report you may find yourself paying more for car insurance.

Tip: Always make at least the minimum payment for your bills on time, particularly your insurance bill.

Glass Coverage: Most auto insurance salespeople recommend "full" glass coverage for an additional premium, when you purchase collision coverage for your car. They remind you how much it costs to replace all your windows if broken by a vandal. What they do not tell you, and it is unlikely that they would even know (I would only trust the answer from an underwriter, not a sales representative), is whether your insurance company will use a previous glass claim to increase your future premium and whether they will report your glass claims to C.L.U.E.

Some insurance companies will report glass claims to C.L.U.E. and then use these claims to raise your premium or even worse, cancel your car insurance policy making you assigned risk with a substantial premium increase. Allstate notified me that after four claims in less than five years, they terminated my auto insurance policy and then offered to sell me coverage in their Indemnity Company with a shocking premium increase. These claims consisted of two claims for a broken windshield, one for a stolen and recovered car and one accident.

I had a sports car and had to endure a total premium increase over a period of four years of approximately $12,000 and remain claim free before I became eligible for coverage outside of the assigned risk pool. I wrote a letter to the president of Allstate complaining that they should not have considered my glass claims when canceling my car insurance because the glass claims were made under a separate part of the policy for which I paid a separate and additional premium. Allstate responded in a letter stating "Although this claim activity does not indicate that you were directly at fault in each loss, the frequency and severity of the above losses was not within our range of acceptability. After careful review, I regret to inform you that we cannot reverse our original decision regarding the above policy. We have however continued to offer coverage in our Indemnity Company."

Tip: Check with the underwriting department of your insurance company to see if they will consider glass claims when assessing premiums or if they report glass claims to C.L.U.E. If yes, do not make a glass claim. The two windshields which Allstate provided me with were aftermarket windshields which would have cost me less than $300 each. During the last 30 years of my driving history, I have experienced two broken front windshields, one broken rear windshield and two broken side windows. While the financial risk of totaling a car can be substantial, the financial risk of replacing a windshield is comparatively insignificant. It does not make sense to file a glass claim if it will increase your premium. You may even want to decline this coverage altogether and save the premium.

Tip for leased vehicles: Some lease agreements require that the car be returned with an OEM windshield. If you lease a car and replace a front windshield using your "full" glass coverage, insist that the insurance company provide you with an OEM windshield from the manufacturer. If you pay for the windshield yourself, check your lease agreement carefully to see if you must use an OEM windshield from the manufacturer or if you can use an aftermarket windshield. Some people with leased cars who have replaced a windshield with an aftermarket windshield are shocked, when they return their car, to find that the leasing company is charging them $800 for a new OEM windshield, even though the aftermarket windshield is in perfect condition.

Car Rental & Towing Coverage: While it may be a good idea to have this coverage, it is not always a good idea to use it. Some people have realized that this coverage is not just available when an accident has occurred. For instance, some people have used the car rental coverage when their car was in a repair shop or the towing coverage when their car broke down on the road. As with glass coverage, using this coverage may be the same as filing a claim.

Tip: Check with the underwriting department of your insurance company to see if they will consider rental or towing claims when assessing premiums or if they report these claims to C.L.U.E. If yes, do not use car rental or towing coverage unless you have had an accident, in which case it will be part of the accident claim. If you are concerned about towing costs when your car breaks down, you can buy one of the roadside assistance memberships such as the one available from AAA which provides additional benefits not provided by your automobile insurance policy.


Ten Tips on Choosing Your Irish Driving Instructor.




First of all let’s examine why you would need a Driving Instructor in order to learn how to drive. Sure everyone needs a teacher, advisor or instructor, don’t they, when facing up to a new challenge? Or do they? Which comes first, the Chicken or the Egg?


Would you go out and Order an expensive Steinway Piano, never having played a note?

Would you go to your local swimming pool and jump in the deep end if you had never been in the water before?


Would you ring up your local light Aircraft Company and order a Cessna for next day delivery and ask them to have it tanked up and ready to go?


How about booking a two week scuba Diving holiday in the Aegean when all your experience to date is a deck chair on the beach at Torremolinos?


All of the above scenarios are about as inconceivable as you can possibly imagine; yet thousands of Irish learner Drivers are doing the equivalent every day of the week. Why so? Well it is a combination of the previously lax laws and now that we do actually have some legislation heading us in roughly the right direction, the inability of the Garda to enforce them .Yes we have had a good deal of changes to our system of Driving Tests and Licensing recently but Mandatory tuition has yet to be enacted. When it is introduced, hopefully we will be on the slow uphill climb to some degree of motoring competence instead of the current Motoring mayhem which we currently enjoy.


Let’s now have a look at the type of Instructor you should be looking for.


1. Look through the Golden Pages and try to make a short list of those Driving Schools with a Web Site. You could of course, do a quick search on Google using various search terms. A School with a web site is one who takes their profession seriously and who will provide quite a lot of free, but invaluable information .Do not regard a web site as purely a smart way of attracting more pupils. Look at it as a way of getting some valuable info, together with an inside peek at who the Instructor might be, and how he or she does business.


2. Look for a school with qualified Instructors. Now in Ireland at present, but not for long, anyone can call themselves a qualified Instructor, never having so much as looked at an advanced Driving Course or taken any Examinations. We have The Driving Instructor Register here which has been examining Driving Tutors on a voluntary basis since 1996 .A good number of Driving Instructors have passed these exams and will be able to impart an advanced level of tuition.


3. Don’t just ring up a Driving School and with your first sentence ask what prices are your lessons. You are perfectly entitled to query prices, which will be very much the same from all established Schools. Schools that have not been established for long or who are desperate for business will be sometimes somewhat cheaper. Any one that is substantially less than the bunch should be avoided since this is not a profession that is cheap to run and today you get what you pay for .Cheap lessons are exactly that!


4. Ask the age of the Instructor and how long they have been driving. European Driving School standards require that an Instructor must have been driving on a full licence for at least three if not four years. Frankly, anyone with less than ten years driving experience will not have the necessary skills to be a worthwhile choice in my view .We are talking here about teaching pupils skills for life and not a half-hearted few lessons prior to the Driving Test, which sadly seems to be a favourite choice of a good many Irish learner Drivers.


5. Ask what make and model the Driving School car is. There are many models in use by Driving Schools and of course all Instructors tend to have their own particular favourites. Diesel models are extremely economical for the Instructor who lives in the country and who does a lot of mileage. Diesel models are on the increase due to their improved performance over past years and their economy. They also hold their value well and while a little more expensive to maintain they go on for ever if looked after.


6. Ask the Instructor whether or not country road and high speed carriageway Driving are include in the Teaching Syllabus. These form a large part of your every day driving in Ireland and are very important skills to have right from the start. Ask yourself the question...are you going to be spending the bulk of your driving career, driving around your local area or into town and back; or are you going to be visiting the Coast, going on Holiday to the far reaches of the country or even Dublin. Of course you are; after all isn’t this why you are buying a car in the first place? If you are only concerned with transporting yourself within your local area it’s much cheaper, believe me, to hire a Taxi!


7. Ask your proposed Instructor does she or he give Motorway Tuition. While we don’t have the same level of Motorways here in Ireland, as in the U.K or Europe, we do have stretches between major cities and particularly in the Dublin area and of course over the coming years there will be many more miles of Motorway I am sure. These marvels of Engineering require a higher degree of skill and lots of practise in your car before one can safely negotiate Dublin or abroad. This is why Learner Drivers are not permitted on Motorways. We are lucky here in Limerick, in that we have a new ring road carriageway, spanning about 20 miles which is identical in layout and signage to a Motorway apart from the speed limit and the colour of said signs. Perfect for legal high speed Motorway style practise within five minutes or so drive from most parts of the City.


8. Most Driving Schools will usually book lessons at least a week ahead, so don’t expect to ring up and get a lesson that day or even the next. Occasionally if you are lucky, and the School has a vacant slot they will take you but it’s the exception rather than the rule. If the School can’t take you for a week be patient it will be well worth the wait.


9. A good Driving Instructor will ask you for a fair bit of information on the phone in order to gauge your level of skill. He or she will ask questions that may not seem relevant, when all you, as a pupil want to do is to get behind the wheel. Believe me they will be; they will all be designed to build up your driver profile and should not be construed as being nosy!


10. A Professional Instructor will take with a pinch of salt your efforts at explaining just how well you can drive and how you only need a bit of practise here and there at reversing or hill starts. Don’t be defensive, you are about to learn one of the most important life building and life saving skills. A good Instructor will not venture out in your own car, if you already have one, until he or she has seen your capabilities or you have described in great detail your experience. eg. one years driving and getting ready to sit the Driving Test.



This is the first in a series of “Ten Tips” to better and safer Driving.
About the Author: - Robin Piggott has spent a lifetime behind the wheel and is passionate about his Profession (and many other pursuits as well).The next generation of Drivers needs to develop a passion for excellence if they are to stay safe and arrive alive! Visit the Astral School of Motoring Web site at: -

http://www.astralmotoring.ie


A Comparison Of Car Registration Number Systems In Europe.




Although there are many new harmonisation laws across the European Union , each country still has its own unique way of identifying the vehicles registered in each country. The only common element is the blue border on the left edge of the number plate with the EU flag and country of origin and even this is optional in many member country. This article compares some of the member countries display of car registrations.





Beginning with England, number plates have black digits on white background ( front ) and yellow background ( rear ) with EU border optional number plates generally stay with the car during its lifetime.The numbering system has 7 digits with age and area identifiers. The first two digits are alpha characters and depict the area the car was first registered the next two are numbers giving the year of registration and the last three letters are random. France is adopting a new system in 2008 of 7 digits comprising two letters three numbers and two letters all purely random any area identify will be by a logo on the blue strip at the right hand side of the plate.





The number plates will remain with the car during its life. France’s current system comprises 3 or 4 numbers then two letters the two numbers , the last two numbers are the area identifier and if a car moves areas it is re-registered. Similar to England the digits are black on a white background for the front plate and black on yellow for the rear.Spain adopted a new system in 2000 which comprises 4 numbers the 3 letters, black digits on white backgrounds front and rear, although the last 3 letters can give an indication of where and when the car was first registered it is not as blatant as the old system where the first two letters of the registration number indicated the capital city of the region concerned e.g M for Madrid and MA for Malaga.





The blue EU border at the left hand side is compulsory on new number plates but was optional on the old system.Germany adopted its current system after re-unification in 1990 with a maximum of 8 black digits on a white background. Much emphasis is placed on the area coding and if the owner changes his/her area of residence new plates must be bought. The registration will start with letters identifying the city and even district with numbers following. The exact combination of letters and numbers depends on how big the city/district is and how many cars are likely to be registered there.





Curiously a space is considered to be a character so any a gap between digits would have a hyphen in it if it was not a space character. In between the area code and the rest of the digits there is a sticker signifying compliance with emmissions and safety testing.





The EU blue strip at the left is mandatory with the letter D for Deutschland. Italy adopted its current system in 1994 comprising 7 digits starting with two letters then 3 numbers then two letters. They discontinued the area identifier with this system but this proved unpopular so since there is option of having a regional code on the right hand side blue band which also displays the year of registration they also added the blue EU band at the LHS at this time. Both front and rear plates are white with black digits.





Belgian car number plates differ enormously from the previous countries in that they are specific to the driver not the car and when you change the car you keep your registration number. The rear plate is government supplied with red digits on a white background. It is usually mounted on a further plate which has the EU blue band at the right hand side. The front plate can either be the same as the rear or can be a European style similar to the previous countries covered earlier. Current numbering system is three letters followed by three numbers although because they are driver specific there are many still in use with one letter and four numbers or 2 letters and 3 numbers.Obviously area and age identifiers are not used as the registration number is specific to the driver not the car.





Dutch number plates have followed the format of two numbers two letter two letters with hyphens between since 1999 , earlier systems were similar but varied the interchanged pairs of letters for numbers and vice-versa.Both plates are yellow with black digits and have the blue EU band at the right hand side. Apart from special plates such as dealer and export plates the numbers and letters have no significance. Danish number plates normally have two letters followed by 5 numbers, displayed by black digits on white background since 1969 there is no area or age identifier although the number part signifies whether the vehicle is a car or bike etc. The blue EU band at the left border is not due to be implemented in 2008.





It is interesting to note that the United Kingdom is the only country amongst the above to use plastic car number plate , nearly all others use pressed metal plates.


Auto Repair Estimates And Car Repair Prices - The Real Information To Avoid Car Repair Scams




Worrying whether or not you were overcharged for your car repair is an awful feeling. There’s tons of advice on how to avoid getting ripped-off, but few discuss the actual car repair prices. We really need to look at the charges on a car repair estimate or auto repair invoice to determine if we’re paying too much.





The focus needs to shift from giving outdated and ineffective advice to addressing the "actual" and "specific" charges. Are they legitimate charges? Can they be justified by industry guidelines?





Now car repair estimates can be confusing. So let’s break it down to get a better idea if your auto repair shop is billing you appropriately.





First, a glossary of terms is in order, as the auto industry has a language of its own…





Aftermarket Parts: parts not made by the manufacturer.





MSRP: Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price





OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer. Manufacturer approved parts designed specifically for your vehicle.





TSBs: Technical Service Bulletins. Notes and instructions provided by the manufacturer for known and specific concerns(they are not recalls).





Flat Fees: services such as alignments that don't get broken down into parts, tax, labor





Miscellaneous Charges: these can include, but are not limited to shop supplies - rags, chemicals, hazardous waste disposal fees, waste oil ...etc.





Labor Rate: a repair center’s hourly charge to service your vehicle





Labor Time: the amount of time or hours determined that it will take to fix your vehicle





Labor Description: the step-by-step written details of repairs and/or services





Ok, let’s look at the Anatomy of an Auto Repair Estimate:





There are six basic components to a car repair estimate





1) Customer/Vehicle Information



2) Parts



3) Labor



4) Miscellaneous Charges



5) Flat Fees



6) Summary of Charges





Customer and Vehicle Information





Using a generic “top down” style estimate, the top portion simply contains your personal information and your vehicle's specifics: year, make, model, mileage...etc, as well as your request or concern.





We also want find the shop's labor rate. The labor rate is critical in determining if you paid too much. Most repair centers don't list the labor rate. We'll discuss why shortly.





Auto Parts





Parts are listed usually with a brief description, as well as the quantity, and the price. There are three types of parts: OEM (parts made by or for a manufacturer). These are the parts installed by a dealer, although many local shops use OEM parts too.





Aftermarket parts are non OEM parts, and there are various degrees of quality, depending on the brand and where they’re made – China versus USA, for example.





Then there are Used parts purchased from a salvage yard.





To determine if you paid too much for parts, first find out what type of parts are being used. With OEM parts, you don’t want to pay more than MSRP, although most people do without realizing it. Premium aftermarket parts are similarly priced across brands, although beware not to pay more than MSRP, which again, many folks do. Used part prices are all over the place, so pick the price in the middle.





Auto Repair Labor





Labor is billed in tenths. So 1.0 equals 1 hour. 1.5 equals an hour and a half.





Labor rates range from $60 to $100 per hour at local repair shops and $80 to $140 per hour at the dealer level. Labor times are based off established industry guidelines, which are frequently abused.





If you don't see the shop's labor rate posted on the car repair invoice, ask your service center for the rate. Repair shops can manipulate the labor rate (among other things) with a labor matrix. Matrix pricing is a complicated and ethically questionable practice discussed at length in RepairTrust literature. What you need to know is that you can pay as high as $150 per hour rather than the posted labor rate of $105 per hour.





To ensure that you're being charged properly, you'll want to multiply the number of hours billed (which is also often not posted) by the shop's labor rate.





Most labor descriptions are poorly written and difficult to understand. So ask questions.





Here’s a "clear" labor description for a 30,000 mile service on a Toyota Camry.





Performed 30,000 mile service per customer request, and in accordance with manufacturer guidelines. Changed oil and filter, installed new air filter, cabin filter and performed all necessary tests, checks, and procedures, including road test (miles 30,123 – 30,125). Performed lubrication services and confirmed proper vehicle operation. Set tire pressures, and checked fluids, belts and hoses. Note: vehicle is pulling slightly left. Needs alignment





Miscellaneous Charges





The bulk of your car repair invoice will be parts and labor, but we can't forget about Miscellaneous Charges. These charges can include, but are not limited to, shop supplies - rags, chemicals, hazardous waste, disposal fees, waste oil ...etc. The latter of these may be billed out separately in a summary at the bottom of your repair invoice.





Very few of these "extras" are actually used during regular repairs. Miscellaneous charges are calculated off the amount of labor hours billed, not the amount of miscellaneous items used.





Flat Fees





Flat fees can be another very tricky area. Flat fees are services, such as an alignment, which don't get broken down into parts, tax and labor. This makes it difficult to determine the real and fair price. On the plus side, most flat fees are competitively priced.





Be warned however, another term for Flat Fee is called Menu Selling. In other words, you might see Tune Up: $99.99 or Transmission Flush: $89.99. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations only, not a dealer's or repair shop's menu.





Summary of Charges





The last part of an auto repair estimate is the summary of charges. It's usually found in the bottom right hand corner of the invoice. Check it against the charges above to ensure that it all adds up mathematically, as well as logically.





This basic estimate outline may differ from your particular invoice, which may have other categories such as "Sublet" or "HazMat."





A sublet charge is added when your auto repair shop uses another vender to fix or repair your car, such as a glass company that replaces your windshield.





A HazMat charge may include waste oil or other disposal fees. Just make sure that the charges are warranted, as again, they too are often calculated off the labor time rather than actual need.





In sum, understanding the “actual” charges, asking the right questions, and breaking down your auto repair costs is the best way to avoid paying excessive car repair prices.